Her Footsteps, My Shoes

My mother has given me the world, literally and figuratively, and I'm so glad for the opportunity to share our story.

throwback to Hong Kong

What happens when you are one of three students attending a field program where the SAS photographer tags along- you are featured.

a taste of home in the future

The last thing I said to my friend Ashley in November, in our final class together in Theological Hall in Queen's University, was "See you in Singapore!" It was very comforting to know that, halfway through my trip around the world, I would get to spend a weekend with a close friend. As my SAS mates were researching zoos, museums and fancy hotels, I was content to know I would just get to talk about Kingston, theatre, and what I missed about home.

Ashley and her friend Catherine were waiting for me as I exited Immigration (the security and terminal in Singapore was quite a contrast to Vietnam, where I once sprinted by the Immigration guards without so much as showing my landing card), and I immediately had that lovely feeling of being completely separated from the SAS herd- this was my experience and no one else's.

In the blinding Singaporean heat, we did the obligatory touristy things- checking out Marina Bay, including the hotel where apparently close to 200 SASers stayed- the iconic, and insanely expensive, Marina Bay Sands Hotel. Later, lying in Ashley's dorm room, a small concrete room with no air conditioning but friendly geckos, I thought once again about the contrast between my experience and other's, but the richness in both.

I thought Singapore was fascinating in its dystopian feel… The subway signs were written in four languages, the streets were insanely clean, the young students were all very fit looking - apparently due a mandatory fitness done under threat of bootcamp, and of course the infamous laws and fines. Although I liked it, I don't think I would want to live in Singapore. The prevalence of undercover cops and cameras, the lack of LGBT rights, and underlying feeling of being in a real life Disneyland for millionaires was enough to convince me of that.

- - 

Two days was not enough to explore Singapore. The multicultural nature of the city meant each neighbourhood we walked through was unique and fascinating. Below, taken in Arab Street, is one of my favourite photos so far. The colours!

Ashley took me to a light show that evening outside Marina Bay. It was hilarious in its subtle themes of monogamy, conformity, and happiness, and also in excessive use of lasers (and bubbles).

We also stumbled upon a Hindu temple that I, even having done rather well in my Hinduism class last semester, was puzzled at. It felt like a Hindu temple for beginners, with explanations of Hindu iconography on the walls (in English, no less). I need to ask my Religions professor about it.

I was excited about it, regardless. Photo credit to Ashley.

On the first day we also went to a museum with an awesome dinosaur exhibit, which was like being a child again, surrounded by scientific guesswork in a cold large room with fantastical statues.

- - -

Beyond the beautiful things we saw, we ate some beautiful things. Chilli crab (from Canada), ice cream in green bread, bubble tea, more ice cream, some more bubble tea.

I spent every last moment with Ashley and her lovely exchange friends, including the moments running for the ship to ensure I didn't get dock time - for such an apparently forward-thinking city, the trains in Singapore are remarkably slow.

Swapping stories with roommate, she expressed how she would have easily exchanged her room in Marina Bay Sands for my weekend. It's true, the hours I spent talking with Ashley about what we are learning half-way around the world from our home university were an indescribable refreshment, and a welcome tool to process what I have learned and how I have grown so far. I was surprised to hear myself advocating for the benefits of independent travel after recounting my adventures in Vietnam.

If you're reading this Ashley, thank you so much for everything. See you Kingston.

- - -

I'm currently siting in a lecture learning Burmese (although I should be writing my paper for Shakespeare).

It's getting quite exhausting, but it feels like a routine, almost, these crazy days on the ship before being thrown into another completely new place. Burma (or Myanmar) is one of the most difficult stops on our trip, emotionally and logistically. There were even rumours that we wouldn't be going because of the dangerous political situation always underlying the country. It feels like being in Burma will be like walking on weak ice.

I don't want to frighten anyone (hi Mom) but my plans in Burma involve a few close friends, a couple hundred dollars, and one goal. Bagan or bust. I'll let you know how it turns out.

a taste of home in the future

The last thing I said to my friend Ashley in November, in our final class together in Theological Hall in Queen's University, was "See you in Singapore!" It was very comforting to know that, halfway through my trip around the world, I would get to spend a weekend with a close friend. As my SAS mates were researching zoos, museums and fancy hotels, I was content to know I would just get to talk about Kingston, theatre, and what I missed about home.

Ashley and her friend Catherine were waiting for me as I exited Immigration (the security and terminal in Singapore was quite a contrast to Vietnam, where I once sprinted by the Immigration guards without so much as showing my landing card), and I immediately had that lovely feeling of being completely separated from the SAS herd- this was my experience and no one else's.

In the blinding Singaporean heat, we did the obligatory touristy things- checking out Marina Bay, including the hotel where apparently close to 200 SASers stayed- the iconic, and insanely expensive, Marina Bay Sands Hotel. Later, lying in Ashley's dorm room, a small concrete room with no air conditioning but friendly geckos, I thought once again about the contrast between my experience and other's, but the richness in both.

I thought Singapore was fascinating in its dystopian feel… The subway signs were written in four languages, the streets were insanely clean, the young students were all very fit looking - apparently due a mandatory fitness done under threat of bootcamp, and of course the infamous laws and fines. Although I liked it, I don't think I would want to live in Singapore. The prevalence of undercover cops and cameras, the lack of LGBT rights, and underlying feeling of being in a real life Disneyland for millionaires was enough to convince me of that.

- - 

Two days was not enough to explore Singapore. The multicultural nature of the city meant each neighbourhood we walked through was unique and fascinating. Below, taken in Arab Street, is one of my favourite photos so far. The colours!

Ashley took me to a light show that evening outside Marina Bay. It was hilarious in its subtle themes of monogamy, conformity, and happiness, and also in excessive use of lasers (and bubbles).

We also stumbled upon a Hindu temple that I, even having done rather well in my Hinduism class last semester, was puzzled at. It felt like a Hindu temple for beginners, with explanations of Hindu iconography on the walls (in English, no less). I need to ask my Religions professor about it.

I was excited about it, regardless. Photo credit to Ashley.

On the first day we also went to a museum with an awesome dinosaur exhibit, which was like being a child again, surrounded by scientific guesswork in a cold large room with fantastical statues.

- - -

Beyond the beautiful things we saw, we ate some beautiful things. Chilli crab (from Canada), ice cream in green bread, bubble tea, more ice cream, some more bubble tea.

I spent every last moment with Ashley and her lovely exchange friends, including the moments running for the ship to ensure I didn't get dock time - for such an apparently forward-thinking city, the trains in Singapore are remarkably slow.

Swapping stories with roommate, she expressed how she would have easily exchanged her room in Marina Bay Sands for my weekend. It's true, the hours I spent talking with Ashley about what we are learning half-way around the world from our home university were an indescribable refreshment, and a welcome tool to process what I have learned and how I have grown so far. I was surprised to hear myself advocating for the benefits of independent travel after recounting my adventures in Vietnam.

If you're reading this Ashley, thank you so much for everything. See you Kingston.

- - -

I'm currently siting in a lecture learning Burmese (although I should be writing my paper for Shakespeare).

It's getting quite exhausting, but it feels like a routine, almost, these crazy days on the ship before being thrown into another completely new place. Burma (or Myanmar) is one of the most difficult stops on our trip, emotionally and logistically. There were even rumours that we wouldn't be going because of the dangerous political situation always underlying the country. It feels like being in Burma will be like walking on weak ice.

I don't want to frighten anyone (hi Mom) but my plans in Burma involve a few close friends, a couple hundred dollars, and one goal. Bagan or bust, but we're not sure how. I'll let you know how it turns out.

the sun above

A quick update before our arrival in Singapore tomorrow morning.

I spent about two hours in the afternoon lying in the sun, attempting to get homework done. A friend and I, both of us quite uncomfortable lying in the sun in just our bikinis, still want to arrive home with tans to make our friends jealous, so we help each other gather the courage to tan like the best of the sorority girls.

I have to keep reminding myself that my body has never been exposed to this kind of heat and sun before. I've never been this close to the equator for this long.

So yes, I am sunburnt. Only on my back though. I put sunscreen on my front, not my back. For some reason I thought how I was sitting, hunched over to do homework, would prevent the sun from finding my Canadian skin. There's a lovely red line where the strap of my top crosses my abdomen.

Lesson learned.

- -

In other less painful news, Singapore! I'm going to be spending the two days with a close friend of mine from my home school, she's currently on exchange there. It's going to be like a little taste of home, as well as a break from the stress of trying to decide what I want to do in Singapore.

a few of my favourite things (from vietnam)

lost in saigon

I wrote an apology letter in my journal to China.

I experienced China through a tour bus window, and I feel that wasn't fair to the country. I don't think I had one conversation with a local, ate somewhere that frightened me, or just got to know the country. I got to see attractions - the Great Wall, Forbidden City, Temple of Heaven, for which I am very grateful. I feel like I saw China as a postcard, so that is what I shared on my blog. Images, for I had no stories.

I was determined not to make the same mistake in Vietnam.

And I am happy to share that I succeeded.

--

I will forever associate the taste of beer with duck eggs and squid. 

- - 

I was given a name in Vietnamese, Thao. It means "clover", but it also means "honest" and "open".

- - 

I did something (actually, a couple things) that Semester at Sea told us not to, and I think it was the best decision I made.

- -

I should explain.

I felt China and Japan were so much about "going", I wanted Vietnam to be about "being". Many SASers were flying north to Hanoi and Ha Long Bay, but I decided to stay in Ho Chi Minh City, or as it was called under French occupation, Saigon. It is an incredible city, buzzing with motorcycles and sun.

Using a website called Couchsurfing, designed to help travellers connect with travellers, I met many local people. My experience was unique, as I was by myself for about three days. I would run back to the ship to shower, drop off things, but I felt like I lived in the city.

Of course, Semester at Sea tells us we should not a) couch surf b) be alone c) ride motorbikes. I did all three.

- -

I met an English teacher in Vietnam who showed me around one morning. Pagodas, the first McDonald's in Vietnam, ice coffee on the side of the street. In return, yesterday I visited his English class and had thirty Vietnamese students nervously and hilariously ask me questions about Canada and how I feel about Vietnamese boys.

The third day, I met a student and her best friend (who might be studying in Toronto in the future!) and they showed me around. The bus system, a charming museum so beautiful it was populated with posing newly-weds, ice cream. It was a wonderful experience, although slightly heartbreaking, realizing how much I missed my own close friends. 

After I said goodbye to them, I met Ngan, whose apartment I would stay at for the next two days.

This photo was from when we said goodbye.

I feel so blessed to have met someone who was so willing to share her country and city with me. By this point, I had done all of the touristy things in HCMC, so all that was left was to live. She and I played badminton in an alley (accidentally losing a birdie over the wall of the Cao Dai temple), sat and sipped coconut milk in the morning market, and I even attended her university. 

She introduced me to her housemates, her sister, her friends. While walking around with her friends, as long as I kept my mouth shut, I felt like I belonged to Vietnam.

When people from SAS have been asking me, "What did you do in Vietnam?", I struggle to answer. I didn't do a lot, but I experienced so much.

- - 

I'll add some more photos later. Right now, I am sitting on the 5th deck appreciating the golden hour of Saigon, as the final students file on the ship. I did love Japan, but I can truly see myself living in Vietnam one day.

The Secret of 2008

The most exciting development from room 2008.

A Semester at Sea tradition is for participants to leave hidden messages for incoming students in their rooms. Normally, this is left on the back of a picture frame that can be easily, or sometimes, not easily, be popped off the wall. Hidden messages have included USBs full of photos and videos, tips for places to go in ports, or even ways to sneak alcohol on the ship.

Having done my research and aware of this tradition, I was slightly heartbroken when I saw that our room lacked a picture frame. Abby and I discussed this, shrugged, and moved on.

Until tonight.

I had heard that rooms without pictures had found clues/notes/messages but hadn't given it much thought. I don't know why tonight I decided to start looking, both Abby and I being exhausted from China (more to come on my adventures in the Middle Kingdom, I promise).

But soon, I was on my knees, checking every spot I had heard about. The vent under the drawers (just a lot of dust), in a secret panel behind the desk (need a screwdriver although I did try with a pair of scissors and a chopstick), behind our mattresses. Abby would pass me tools- flashlight, mirror, whatever. We were just about to give up when I stood on my bed, pulled the porthole curtain aside, and looked up.

There, folded precisely and held with a magnet, was this riddle:

I am small but can hold a lot
I am hidden in a secret spot
Take seven steps look up and see
Beyond the light which the secret will be (advice for you from Fall 2013)

We screamed.

Seven steps from the bedside table Abby was standing under the light close to the bathroom. A couple twists and a yank later, the light popped off in my hands. This adventure has been the closest I have ever been to committing vandalism. Don't worry, it pops back on as easily as off.

There was a distinct, disappointing lack of a secret.

We think the reward (I suspect a USB- what else is small but can hold a lot?) was removed when cleaning staff were changing the light bulb. We do, however, have a name. Her name and the date December 14th 2013 was on the back. We were going to attempt to email her using the formula for all SAS emails before realizing it's probably been discontinued by this point. However, there's always Facebook next time we're in port.

We want our reward.

O Have You Ever Been to China

O have you ever been to China

Or did you ever want to be there

Cause honey if you want to go to China

You can come away with me there

And you can sail an ocean liner

Or have you never even seen one

Well honey if you want an ocean liner

I will purchase you and me one

You can be all the things that you wanted to be

You can see all the things that you wanted to see

You can watch all the dreams that you dare to come true

If you come along with me, we will sail away to China

To China!

If you come along with me, we will sail across the sea

We will sail away to China!

anchored

We were supposed to arrive in Shanghai today at 7 AM.

I decided to sleep in this morning, not waking up watch us pull into port, as the past two days have been incredibly frantic - planning China and Vietnam, as well as sorting out school work - and have left me exhausted. However, when I opened my eyes, my roommate was sitting on her bed and asked, "Have you heard?!"

When I blinked at her she proceeded to explain that the pilot boat (the boat that meets the ship and helps guide us into port), never arrived. It was supposed to arrive at midnight to guide us the 7 hours into the river that Shanghai is located, but instead we are anchored at the mouth of a brown river with endless grey sky. We are now not expected to arrive until 6 PM.

This is most unfortunate for people who booked flights or had field programs today, but I am rather grateful for the rest day, even if it means I perhaps don't get to explore Shanghai for a day. My program to Beijing and the Great Wall doesn't leave until tomorrow morning. I plan to watch some TV and maybe get started on an essay.

Also, my email is currently being annoying, allowing me to send emails but not receive them.

Love from almost-China.

arigato gozimaus, part 2

Due to time constraints - China in two days, I have to prepare for that, then there's this whole school thing - this post will be centred around photos. They are worth a thousand words, after all.

A drawing of me done by a local artist we meet in the Hideaway Cafe in Harajuku. Also, where we learned and became disciples of the philosophy known as "treedom".

The closest I got to kabuki theatre- the crazy posters.

Dawn and Michael attempting and failing to lift the massive metal spear at Kiyomizu-dera Temple in Kyoto. "It's the Japanese version of the sword-in-stone," Michael explained.

Senso-ji Shrine in Tokyo.

The picturesque garden we enjoyed when we stopped for green tea in Kyoto. Also the day we lived on street food and free samples.

English was frequent and hilarious, but we appreciated the effort.

 

Happy Birthday Ben!

Happy 18th Birthday to the best little brother in the world.

I am so blessed to have you as my sibling. I know you're going to do incredible things, and I can't wait to be there to cheer you on.

I'm thinking of you today. Eat some cake or something for me!

arigato gozaimasu, part 1

After leaving Hawaii, I was slightly worried. If every port was like Hawaii, I was going to have a good trip.

If every port is like Japan, then truly, this will be the most incredible experience of my life.

- - -

I traveled with three girls from Semester at Sea. Myself, Dawn, Shelby, and Francesca. I had only really known Dawn before this adventure, and now the four of us are a team, with our own catchphrases and inside jokes. We worked together like the Sisterhood of the Traveling Pants. I actually just returned from our first mini-reunion as I write this.

Dawn had a friend in Tokyo, as they had gone to church together in Ohio growing up. We met Micheal on our first day in Tokyo - after a hilarious game of "Spot the White Guy" in Tokyo Station - he's an American who wishes he was Japanese, studying Japanese, aboard in Tokyo in his final year. To prove how quickly traveling builds friendship, by the time we said goodbye, the four of us called him "Mom". As his exams for the semester just finished, when we told him we were going to Kyoto and Kobe after Tokyo, he agreed to come along. Conversationally fluent in Japanese, his presence was greatly welcomed. He winced at our butchering of the language, corrected our faux-pases, and just generally educated us as to the benefits of living in Japan (there are many). Sarcastic ninety percent of the time (unfortunate, as he explained, because sarcasm is nonexistent in Japan), he was also always ready with a quick retort and eye roll at our excited antics. 

I painstakingly copied out Japanese kanji for 'thank you' in pencil crayon for a card for him last night. It's so strange to think that I am now friends with a guy from Ohio, who wants to live in Japan for the rest of his life, who I might never, ever see again.

Here is Team Tokyo's "boy band" album cover photo.

- - -

I feel like it is pointless to attempt to describe every single thing we did over the past 6 days. I look through the 900ish photos I took, the scribbled notes in my journal, and realize that I will need a significant amount of time to process Japan. Unfortunately, I have two days.

- - -

I have never felt comfortable in cities. They are often loud, noisy, unclean, and so unlike the small towns I was born and raised in, places where you can hear yourself think and see the stars at night.

Regardless, I loved Tokyo. It is a city that feels like an alternate world, lit by neon lights and vending machines. It's insanely clean, due to an odd lack of garbage cans. The subway is user-friendly, even when slightly tipsy after a night of karaoke. The back alleys we found ourselves wandering down inspired adventure rather than fright.

I feel as if the bright lights of Shibuya and Akihbara coloured my skin like a summer sun ray and I am only now basking in the after-glow.

- - -

I am happy to share that I found my appetite in Japan. The money we spent on food I would spend a hundred times over without hesitation. I decided, on my first unfamiliar meal being put in front of me, that I would eat everything without question. This decision paid off. We could barely walk a block without Micheal saying, "You haven't lived if you haven't eaten ____. We have to stop." Thanks to him, we ate cheaply but well. My first ever sushi, fried octopus, red bean paste pastries, green tea ice cream, udeo, ramen, the list feels endless. My only issue was my lack of experience with chopsticks - every meal I felt like I had to have a refresher lesson, meaning I ate twice as slowly as everyone else.

- - - 

I saw temples in Kyoto five times older than my country. Their beauty is indescribable. I was slightly disappointed that my habit for reading informative plaques was slightly more difficult when the language was different, but that didn't stop me from learning.

We walked the paths of emperors, drank wish-granting water, bathed as they did thousands of years ago and still do (I have two categories of friends now- those I have seen naked, and those I have not), gazed at mist-toped mountains. 

Also, we fed monkeys.

- - -

I feel like there is so much more. But I have class tomorrow, for which I have to read three acts of Hamlet and rehearse a scene.

More to come, hopefully. For now, sleep is welcome, although when I close my eyes, I will likely still see the luminous country that is Japan.